Used Car Viewing Checklist — What to Inspect and Look For

Bodywork and Paint

• Walk around the car in daylight. Look for misaligned panels, different paint shades, or overspray on trim
• Check panel gaps between doors, bonnet, and boot are even. Large gaps suggest panel replacement
• Run your hand over the bodywork. Smooth paint feels uniform; repairs feel slightly raised or recessed
• Inspect the boot, bonnet, and door frames — these are hardest to paint invisibly after respraying
• Use a 20p coin to test paint thickness in suspicious areas. Glide it across the paint; fresh paint catches the coin

Tyres

• Check tread depth using the 20p test: insert a coin into the tread groove. If the outer ring disappears, tread is above 1.6mm (safe). If you can see the edge, it is below 1.6mm and will fail MOT
• Look for uneven wear — excessive wear on inner or outer edges suggests suspension or tracking issues
• Check all four tyres, including the spare. Mismatched tyres suggest multiple replacements at different times
• Look for lumps, bulges, or damage. These are not safe and must be replaced before driving

Interior and Comfort

• Smell the interior. A musty or damp smell indicates water ingress (expensive to fix). Excessive air freshener may mask odours
• Check the condition of seats, carpet, and trim. Heavy wear for the mileage suggests high-stress use
• Try all windows, door locks, and controls. They should work smoothly without jamming
• Check for stains or damage. A stained driver's seat and steering wheel can indicate excessive smoking or other damage

Engine Bay

• Look at the engine itself: no oil leaks from seals, hose connections are clean (not recently cleaned)
• Check fluid levels: coolant, brake fluid, power steering should be topped up. Low levels suggest neglect
• Look for corrosion or fresh paint on engine components — this hides recent repair work
• Check the battery date if visible — a very new battery might indicate recent replacement for a fault

Test Drive

• Listen for unusual engine noises: knocking, knackering, or grinding suggest mechanical problems
• Check braking: should feel smooth and firm, not spongy or pulling to one side
• Check steering: should feel responsive, not heavy or vague
• Listen for clunking or rattling over bumps (suspension or loose trim)
• Check warning lights illuminate at startup, then go out. Any illuminated during driving is a problem

Documents

• V5C: registered keeper name and address must match the seller and match what they tell you
• Service history: stamps in a service book are good evidence of maintenance. Receipts are less reliable (easier to forge)
• MOT certificates: the registration, VIN, and mileage at each test should match the car and be consistent
• Key fobs and handbooks: all expected keys and original manuals should be present

Critical Red Flags — Walk Away If You See These

• V5C is missing or seller cannot locate it — this is a classic scam indicator
• Seller's name on V5C does not match the person selling — ownership is unclear
• Mileage inconsistent with vehicle age — combined with a vehicle check for clocking
• Engine management or warning light is on — indicates a fault that has not been investigated
• Extreme engine bay cleanliness — hides recent repairs or work that was not disclosed
• Musty smell inside — water damage repair is expensive and rots cars from inside out
• Seller pressures you to buy immediately — a legitimate seller is patient; rushing is a tactic
• Reluctance to allow a test drive — a seller with nothing to hide welcomes one